Exploring Iceland: Day 7 – Back Home and Top Ten Iceland Surprises

Exploring Iceland: Day 7 – Back Home and Top Ten Iceland Surprises

The plane back home

In my travel experience, I have always found that the cloud of departure hangs over your final day, consuming it and leaving you with nothing else. Our flight home wasn’t scheduled to depart, but when you work your way backwards from the airport, car rental return, lunch, commuting back to the airport, checking out, and packing, suddenly the day is a busy one.

That’s how today turned out.

I don’t want to bore you with the details of packing, driving, and the activities of going home, but some highlights included seeing a fantastic full moon at 10:30 am while we were driving back. We also stopped at a thrift shop to see if we could find some Icelandic Wool treasure, but came up empty. We also ate at a food hall near the airport, which offered a variety of options for everyone.

I’m writing this post from our plane ride home, attempting to stay awake until I reach my bed, in the hope that my body clock will have a more effortless adjustment

Top Ten Iceland Surprises

Rather than recap the trip, I wanted to offer my Top Ten list of things that surprised me about Iceland. These are in no particular order:

  1. The Sun. While I was aware that there were fewer than 6 hours of daylight on an Icelandic November day, the trajectories of sunrise and sunset truly astonished me. The sun seemed to rise in the south and skirted across the lower horizon until it finally set. However, dawn and dusk seemed to last longer. In Colorado, it gets extremely dark thirty minutes after sundown, but in Iceland, we had twilight for what seemed like hours after the sun set.
  2. You have to get used to sulfur showers. Iceland makes effective use of its geothermal environment. Where we stayed, it seemed that most of the water came from hot springs, but as soon as the shower switched to hot water, you could smell a strong sulfur smell in the water. Where I’m used to finding showers refreshing, I had to adjust my expectations when I tried to get clean.
  3. On the flip side, the drinking water was always cold, crisp, and delicious. In Colorado, the downside of having amazing drinking water is becoming oversensitive to water taste when traveling. That wasn’t a problem in Iceland.
  4. Trolls are prevalent throughout Iceland. There is a lot of lore about how Trolls helped form Iceland, lived here before people came, and continue to live here. It was really cool seeing that exhibited throughout our time in Iceland.
  5. The speed radars have smiling and frowning faces. I’m no stranger to speed radars being placed along roads, but the ones on the onset of Icelandic towns tell you your speed in relation to the limit, then, depending on whether you’re over or under it, will show you a smiley or frowning face. Iceland also has a great deal of speed cameras, for which we were grateful that Google Maps would play a warning chime when approaching them.
  6. Iceland shuts down early, at least in the winter. We had to be careful in our activity planning if it involved a shop or market, as those would commonly close around 5 or 6pm.
  7. The wind is no joke. Coming from Colorado, we expected winter cold, but the amount of wind throughout our trip made it challenging to be outside. I’m glad I invested in hunting pants that helped break the wind.
  8. Most of the winter terrain is an ice skating rink. Months before we left, I invested in some crampons (little rings that put traction around your shoes when walking on ice), and there they sat on my dresser when I sealed my suitcase. I was kicking myself all week long for forgetting them. Iceland’s cold is so humid that pretty much every walking service becomes an ice rink. Thankfully, I didn’t slip, but I moved much more gingerly and had a few close calls.
  9. The scenery is beautiful, but you’re going to spend lots of time in the car seeing it. Perhaps it was how we organized our trip, but we ended up spending hours in the car each day to see everything we wanted to. Iceland is one of those countries where, if you can afford it, it makes sense to sleep at a different place each night. Some of that may not be practical, but things are spread out incredibly. We were fortunate to have only one day of treacherous driving conditions. Aside from that, the roads were well-maintained.
  10. Subway is everywhere. We even found a KFC, but McDonald’s and other fast-food chains are nowhere to be found. It seems that much of Icelandic cuisine has been influenced by various countries. Since Shannon is allergic to Gluten, she had to eat bun-less burgers virtually every time we ate out. Given that hamburgers and hot dogs are so prevalent throughout Iceland, it makes sense that these restaurants don’t want to compete with a fast-food burger but seem okay with a cold-cut sandwich chain.

Thank you again for journeying with me and reading my posts about our fantastic time in Iceland. I will forever be grateful to Shannon and her family for welcoming me on this trip and experiencing the joy of their family. I would love to bring my daughters back someday to experience all of this beauty, but perhaps we’ll aim for warmer weather.

Exploring Iceland: Day 6 – Ice Caves, Crystal Beaches, and Northern Lights

Exploring Iceland: Day 6 – Ice Caves, Crystal Beaches, and Northern Lights

Our last full day in Iceland was a long one, starting with getting up at 5am to drive the 3.75 hours to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. We had to be there by 9:30 for a scheduled ice cave tour. Once we got there, we hopped on board a “jeep” which was basically a passenger van on steroids. It has these gigantic tires that inflated and deflated on command, thanks to an onboard air compressor. After a 20-minute drive, we arrived at the base of the Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier, where many other vans with other groups were waiting to make the trek up to the ice caves.

The terrain leading up to the glacier was extremely rocky and icy. During our journey, we learned that Apollo astronauts actually trained in this part of Iceland to extract mineral deposits for their lunar missions. The tour guides equipped everyone with helmets and crampons, which made walking on the ice easier.

On the journey, we came across these pieces of ice, crystal clear and incredibly smooth. It was almost like we were holding a fidget toy or crystals rather than pieces of ice.

This particular ice cave has been around for about two months. As the glacier melts and shifts, new caves form, are discovered, and then are opened to tours. The beginning of this cave looked more like a trench, then it got lower until we were covered in places. Some parts of the cave were crystal clear, while other sections had embedded rocks and volcanic ash in the ice. At any given time, there were about 50-60 people within different sections of the cave. There was one point where we had to bend down (I ended up crawling on my knees to avoid damaging my camera).

While I’m proud of the pictures I took, they do not fully encapsulate the majestic feeling of the ice caves.

After spending more than an hour in the cave, we made the trek back down to get into our “jeep”, then were dropped off at the end of the glacier, where pieces have broken off and are now heading into the ocean. The sun was now fully in the sky as well, providing the best light for pictures.

Across the road was Diamond Beach, a black-sand beach where icebergs, polished by the waves, wash back onto shore, looking like diamonds and crystals. I was amazed at just how fine the sand was, as despite kneeling to take some photos, my pants remained clean.

We then made the trek home, which included another stop for hot dogs and a visit to waterfalls. We checked out Seljalandsfoss, which was illuminated by both lights and a full moon.

Mother Nature wasn’t finished with us yet, as we were finally treated to a clear evening and an amazing Northern Lights show. I was pretty happy with the pictures from earlier this week, but these new pictures were everything I had hoped for when we planned to come to Iceland. These were captured right outside of our cottage.

Tired from our long day, we’re now ready to rest up and make the journey back home on Thursday. Depending on what we do before our flight, I may post for Day 7, stay tuned!

Exploring Iceland: Day 5 – Back to Reykjavik

Exploring Iceland: Day 5 – Back to Reykjavik

Yesterday’s whirlwind day meant we needed a later start this morning. After sleeping in, we departed for Hella, a town 15 minutes east of where we’re staying, to check out a cute wool shop. On the way into town, we spotted the neatest diner concept: an American school bus. Sadly, we didn’t eat there, but we loved the idea!

We then drove the 1.5 hours west back to Reykjavik, the capital city. Our first stop was the National Museum of Iceland to learn about the unique story of Iceland’s settlement and its Norse and Viking heritage. The museum was filled with fascinating artifacts, but my favorite exhibit was a photography show, Conversing with Sigfús – In the Footsteps of Sigfús Eymundsson, featuring Icelandic photographer Einar Falur Ingólfsson’s recreations of historical photographs by Iceland’s first photographer, Sigfús, whose work was prevalent during the late 1800s. It was fascinating to see just how dramatically things had changed over a century of growth and development.

Building an appetite from our busy day, we set out to find one of the best hot dogs in the world, purported to be at a street stand in Reykjavik. Iceland is surprisingly renowned for its take on the hot dog: a blend of lamb, beef, and pork sausage served in a soft bun and topped with raw onions, crispy fried onions, ketchup, sweet mustard, and remoulade. Based on our taste test, I’m not one to argue with their claim. It was delicous1

This was actually the first meal we had all day, and sadly, due to Shannon’s gluten allergy, she could not eat any of the hot dog, so we went to a bistro across the street and enjoyed a light meal. We had hoped to check out a flea market and a Christmas market, but unfortunately, both were closed. The flea market is only on weekends, and things in Iceland tend to shut down early during Icelandic winters; it may have something to do with the sun going down at 3:30pm. However, we took in the beautiful lights in the plaza that houses the Christmas market and encountered this Christmas Cat, which supposedly will haunt you if you don’t buy new clothes during Christmas. The weather was perfect for an afternoon stroll.

We did make one more stop before heading back home, but that’s another story for another day. Given that our plans start very early, we’re actually headed to bed early for a 5 am wakeup. More on that to come tomorrow!

Exploring Iceland: Day 4 – Waterfalls and Water-Cooked Bread

Exploring Iceland: Day 4 – Waterfalls and Water-Cooked Bread

We spent today exploring the western region of Iceland, experiencing the natural beauty of Thingvellir National Park! Our day started with a 1-hour drive north to the Hakid Viewpoint and Visitor Centre in Thingvellir, which sits on the tectonic plates. It also features views of the Almannagja Gorge and Thingvallavatn Lake, which came into view as the sun rose at 10:50 am.

We then went to the Laugarvatn Fontana Geothermal Baths, which has a Geothermal Bakery tour, where they actually cook bread by burying it in the ground! The use of the hot springs, which contain boiling water, to cook a pot of rye bread ingredients that cook while buried for 24 hours. While we were there, our group dug up yesterday’s pot, planted today’s pot (which will be enjoyed by folks tomorrow), then cooled it with water from Laugarvatn Lake, which made delicious rye bread that we ate with butter and smoked fish. It was delicious!

After our fill of bread, we went to a local dairy for some tasty ice cream, which had a dining room lined with windows where the cows and humans could watch each other eat.

With full bellies, we ventured out to visit two of Iceland’s most amazing waterfalls. First up was Brúarfoss, an incredibly picturesque collection of waterfalls that converge into vibrant blue water before flowing down the stream. The trail to the observation deck was extremely slippery that day, with many people falling. There was a gentleman who was kind enough to offer his hand and support me (and my camera) as I took those crucial last steps before reaching the platform. His act of kindness touched me. It was such a blessing to capture these photos. I got to play with a long exposure, which made some of these photos look like a painting.

Our next breathtaking sight was Gullfoss Falls, one of Iceland’s iconic features. The hike here was much easier and offered multiple viewing options. The cold winter wind was gusty, and I often had to secure my hat before taking more pictures.

Our day of sightseeing was capped off by a delicious dinner at Vínstofa Friðheima Bistro, which was in a building that resembled a greenhouse. At the large family table, Shannon and I enjoyed a cheese plate, tomato bisque, and a lamb salad. Everything was incredibly delicious and made for a memorable evening.

After an extremely long day, I tried to take some photos of the Northern Lights. Throughout our trip, we’ve had significant cloud cover, making it difficult to view the lights. We’re hopeful that the next two nights will bring a reprieve from cloud cover, but I got a quick glimpse of the lights this evening.

Exploring Iceland – Day 3: Hvammstangi to Hestheimar (with a pit stop at Hallgrímskirkja)

Exploring Iceland – Day 3: Hvammstangi to Hestheimar (with a pit stop at Hallgrímskirkja)

Today, we packed up our gear and departed Hvammstangi, heading towards Hestheimar, the name of our lodging near the town of Hella. The drive was over three hours, and we stopped in Borgarnes for lunch. Today’s temperatures were twice yesterday’s, but were met with horrendous wind throughout the day, along with some snow. Driving was treacherous, and Shannon was a complete champ behind the wheel.

Our drive brought us through Reykjavík, which gave us the chance to stop and see Hallgrímskirkja, the iconic church. The church was beautiful and an inspiring experience. We also walked down the street to check out a few shops, but the wind and our desire to get re-settled prompted us to promise to return later this week and end our day.

More to come tomorrow!